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Derma Roller Home Treatment Guide


It looks daunting doesn’t it? like some sort of medieval torture weapon! I suppose the last thing you would think about in your skincare regime is running tiny needles over your face!  With my love of Ancient Therapies did you know that ‘micro-needling’ has been used in China for centuries, not only did use they for beautiful skin but they also believed that it had a positive effect of the Qi (Chi) life energy of that person. While Western Medicine is finally catching up, Chinese Medicine has known this for centuries: that micro subcutaneous injuries to the Epidermis (most outer layer of the skin) stimulates new collagen growth and renew skin cells to produce smoother, healthier skin, it has now been scientifically proven, though it doesn’t account for the Qi .. give it time though!

beautiful chinese lady

I myself have been using the Derma Roller for the passed six years after was trained in Medical and Cosmetic Derma Roller  at Dermaspa in Milton Keynes, UK, with The Nouveau Beauty Group. At 48 years old I have kept my skin healthy and firm through the use of the Derma Roller at home.

I will give you a little hint here, as most of you will know the skin is the largest organ in the body and is of course our outer waterproof covering.  If you think of the Moisturisers we use are mostly Aqueous, when applied it will only sit on the surface of the skin, which is good for softening the skin, but if you would like it to absorb into the skin and rehydrate the skin, then using the Derma Roller will create micro channels (you can’t see these by the way!) on the the skin,  thus your moisturiser will penetrate further into skin plumping it up, and we all want plump youthful skin do we not!

As Anne Marie says in her YouTube Video and I can vouch for this, it is only advisable to use a needles of 0.25mm to 0.5mm, once you get confident you can go to 1mm but no further than that if you are using for cosmetic reasons.  The higher measurement needles are used for the Medical Derma Roller procedure  and is used for scarring and deep stretch marks, you can use the lower needles for these but it would take just that little longer to see a difference.

 Choosing a Derma Roller

There are so many Derma Rollers available today and although they look quite similar they may not produce the same results, and without a quality roller it may do more harm than good.  Firstly is the needle quality, if they are made from cheap surgical steel then it would be advisable to avoid, what you will be looking for is a Derma Roller made of fine 540 (for better coverage)  Titanium Needles which are ultra sharp and the strongest and will not succumb to bending or rusting.

Does it Hurt?

You’ve been thinking this all along haven’t you?  well firstly it does depend on your pain threshold and skin sensitivity.  For me personally it doesn’t hurt, though where the skin is thinner on the forehead it does make my eyes water, but once I’ve rolled a few times the sensation is less, the only thing I can compare it with pain wise on the area of the forehead (oh and the upper lip area)  is like the feeling of mild sunburn across the skin, though in the other fleshy areas such as your cheeks, chin and jaw line, with a 0.5mm it doesn’t hurt.  You can start lightly and gage for yourself on any pain level.  I promise you will get use to it! if you are a little dubious you could use Topical Anaesthetic from your local Pharmacy, though I recommend as caution to do your own patch test by applying a little behind your ear, leave for 24 hours to make sure you are not allergic to it, its quite rare that you will be but best to be precautious.

There is an alternative to Topical Anaesthetic Cream, by using an ice pack or small bottle of ice to de-sensitise the area, this practice is just as effective and without any side effects.  To be honest I really don’t think you will need to use any of these on a 0.25 – 0.5mm needle.  The longer the needle the more it will smart! ouch!

jennifer aniston
Jennifer Aniston uses the Dermaroller

Preparation Dermaroller!

Pre-Procedure Advice

  • Since delicate skin or sensitive areas may be swollen or red (usually lasts no more than 2 hours, will look like mild sunburn for this time) I would advise not to make any social plans for the same day.  I usually roll mine on the evening, on my evenings in!
  • Do not take Aspirin or Ibuprofen for 2 days beforehand unless you are instructed by a doctor to do so.  Aspirin and Ibuprofen thins the blood, this only occurs usually if you are using a higher needle grade on the lower grade there is no risk of bleeding.
  • Do not drink alcohol the night before, the skin will be dehydrated.
  • Any waxing should be performed  at least 72 hours before using the Derma Roller.  Electrolysis no less than 5 days and Botox it is advisable 3 weeks later.  Who needs Botox though when you have the Derma Roller!
  1. Firstly make sure you roller is sterile, you can use a sterilising solution like Mylee or immerse in boiling water for 5 minutes.
  2. Cleanse the skin thoroughly removing all make up and then re-cleanse with cotton wool soaked in cooled down boiled water.  I usually add a tiny bit of salt to make it a saline solution.
  3. Prepare to roll! using this method of movement.  Think of the Union Jack Flag! Sectioning approximately a 4×4 cm square for each manoeuvre, back and forth 6 times.

dermaroller instructions

for fine wrinkles it is ok to roll over them, for deeper wrinkles, with clean hands make the skin taut with your thumb and forefinger and roll, you can roll this area a little more, but don’t over do it.

By now you will see slight glow of the skin, in actual fact you will need to see some reddening of the skin, as this is the actual process of  the skin’s natural mechanism to renew itself.  If you think of when you grazed or cut yourself, what happens is all the skins supervisors (fibroblasts) come to the surface providing their own ‘building materials’ to repair the tissue with a protein called COLLAGEN! which in a case of a cut or graze will go towards forming a scab.  There will be no scabs when you roll as it only reddens the skin but it will go through the same process to renew itself.

Aftercare Advice

  • You will your skin slightly tighter than normal.  This effect will reduce the next 2-4 hours after, and continue to reduce over the next 24 to 48 hours.
  • If you are not using an Organic Moisturiser or Serum then I can recommend using CoEnzyme Q10  which is made especially for use with the Derma Roller.
  • Again as the same as the pre-advice do not consume alcohol on the same day as your skin will become dehydrated.

Initial Healing Characteristics and Timescale

The skin continues to regenerate over the next month and you may experience some dryness during this time.  This is completely normal.

The First 24 Hours

  • Erythema (Redness) will start to subside, the skin will feel tight and slightly sensitive.
  • Keep your hair away from the face or off your face.
  • Cleanse the your face with boiled water,  gently with gauze or cotton wool pads.
  • Drink plenty of water!
  • Change your pillow case
  • There is no need to take anytime of work, there are no ill effects.
  • Avoid any false tan.
  • Avoid touch skin unless your hands a clean.
  • Avoid direct sunlight.
  • Avoid using the sauna or steam room.
  • Avoid excessive exercise.
  • Avoid going into the shower or bath until the redness has gone down.

The Next 24 to 48 Hours

  • Visible line softening caused by the initial swelling.
  • Continue to use boiled water or a saline solution and pat your face dry.
  • Continue using an a Natural Serum or Moisturiser.
  • I would recommend wearing Mineral Foundation or even avoid foundation altogether for the next 2 days.

The Next 2 to 7 Days

  • For some there maybe still some dryness.  This is due to increased exfoliation.
  • By now you can go back to your usual moisturiser.

The Next 1 to 3 Weeks

  • Visible improvement of skin contour and brightness.

In the Following Weeks

Over the following weeks the skin may take on a new texture and tone, as the blood supply is enhanced and the new skin cells regenerate.  You will experience skin tightness, firmness and plumpness and a reduction in fine lines due to the generation of new collagen within the skin.

Optimum Results

On the 4th week repeat the whole procedure again for the next 3 to 6 months for the best results.  Then maintenance every 3 months.  I can wholeheartedly say you will definitely see an improvement.

So do you think you will try the Derma Roller? If you have a questions I will happy to answer them for you..

Comment here, would love to know your thoughts!